1. The Loire Valley and the surroundings of the airfield.
We shall not consider here the feature which makes this region in France so famous and so special, i.e. the huge number of famous castles and historical sites decorating the landscape between Orléans in the East and Angers in the West. The country is really loaded with history. The subject is virtually inexhaustible and you will find all necessary information in guide books which are by far more professionally drafted than this brochure. One word only: Visiting these castles always provide an exceptional feeling where aesthetics, culture, emotion and history mix together in a very special way. The night illumination and sound sceneries are also privileged moments not to be missed.
1.1. Some history
1.1.1. North of the river
The area located between Paris and the Loire river is called "la Beauce" (pronounce : la boss), and its inhabitants "les beaucerons" (le bosseron). It is a huge plain with an altitude varying between 240 and 420 feet. Usually, one says that the highest mountains in the area are the towers of the Chartres cathedral (pronounce Shartr).
This plain is one of the oldest populated areas in France. Many megalithic monuments (dolmen) testify of a very early occupation, even before gallic and roman times. A fine example of these dolmen can be visited 3 km away from the airfield, in La Chapelle -Vendômoise, almost along the road to the city of Blois. Some village names still remind of these ancient times, "Landes le Gaulois", for example, or many farmhouse names starting with "Ville...", like Villeroux, for instance, which are of Gallo-Roman origin.
The region was extensively opened to agriculture as from the 9th and 10th centuries and nowadays, it is one of the richest agricultural areas of the country. Looking at the vast, almost endless cultivated surfaces from the air will make everybody conscious of the fact that France still is, above all, an agricultural nation by excellence. The crops of wheat, rye, sunflowers, maize, rape, oats, are overabundant. Until mid-June, it is still possible to land in the maize or sunflower crops which are still very small. Between mid-June and mid-July, the situation is more critical, since all the crops have reached a high growing stage. As from mid-July, wheat and rye are being harvested very quickly, thus liberating vast landing fields, quite often bigger than airfields.
Farm exploitations are quite big in terms of real estate. 300 to 500 hectares are not seldom. The peasants are wealthy, to say the least, and their farms are equipped with the latest technology : The labour force of a single man is sufficient to take care of 175 hectares of crop!
Coming closer to the river, the situation slightly changes : Vineyards have been established there since the 10th Century. Chinon, Bourgueil, Vouvray, Montlouis, Mesland are famous names which certainly ring a bell in the ears of distinguished wine specialists. The vineyard culture starts west of the city of Blois and ends up close to the Atlantic coast.
The proximity of wine supply sources certainly influenced the decision of French Kings and noblety to establish their summer residences in this area, as from the 15th and 16th centuries. The wine, but also the relative proximity to Paris, the capital city, for important political reasons in a time when communications were not as quick and easy as today. Above all the mild climate and the abundance of good food probably were key factors. As a matter of fact, you still enjoy the same advantages : With the TGV in Vendôme, you are only 40minutes away from the centre of Paris, or 90 minutes away from Euro-Disney : Good choices for excursions when the weather is not on the glider pilot's side.
Here, the overall picture is radically different : The area located between Blois, Orléans and Gien is a very special place indeed. This is the Sologne (Pronounce as written, for a change !). Originally, it was a large swamp area which could be compared with the Everglades in Florida (The alligators deducted, of course !). During the Middle-Age., it was more or less impenetrable and not even really christianised. Malaria was common. Few travellers dared to cross : The main roads led west or east. The local populations had the reputation of being cut-throats and robbers, or were suspected of witchcraft and commerce with the forces of nature. The situation normalised only during the second half of the 19th century. At that time huge efforts were undertaken to dry-out and sanitise the swamps and the region was opened to the outside world. Inherited from these ancient times are a lot of fishy ponds and lakes and beautiful forest areas with a lot of wildlife. For instance, the forest area around the castle of Chambord is the privileged hunting ground of the French President of the Republic. These forests also hide numerous castles and manors in private hands, owned by famous names in business, politics or show business : To be looked at from the air !
The ground is very sandy and is well suited for the growing of asparagus, strawberries, vegetables, pies, cucumbers, beans, tomatoes etc.. which you can buy directly from the producers every morning on the market place, still showing the morning dew. Typical forest products like mushrooms of all kinds, wild (not always legal) and sweet water fishes are also abundant. Hunting and fishing play an important role in the local economy. Here we highly recommend the visit of the Cheverny castle which accommodates a marvellous hunting museum.
The Sologne should be considered with caution and respect in terms of outlanding opportunities. Fields are generally quite small, sandy and bordered by forest. However, nature is well designed, since this area is generous in terms of thermals activity, mostly until very late in the evening.
The Sologne ends-up at the north bank of the Cher (Pronounce Chair). Further south you will find a landscape similar to the plain of Beauce. Just the name is different : It is called the Berry (Pronounce like in strawberry) and extends far south towards the Central Massive mountain range. Glider pilots call it "Texas" due to the similarity of weather conditions !
1.2. The pleasures of gastronomy ...
Quite often, France is associated to "Art de vivre" and of course to gastronomy. The Loire Valley area greatly contributes to this reputation. Some of the highest distinguished tables of French gastronomy can be found in a range of 40 km around the Blois Le Breuil airfield :
Two stars in the Michelin guide :
Le Domaine des Hauts de Loire à Onzain, tel. : 02 54 20 72
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Le Choiseul à Amboise, tel. : 02 47 30 45 45
Bernard Robin à Bracieux, tel. : 02 54 46 03 69
Charles Barrier à Tours, tel. : 02 47 54 20 39
Long term table reservation is necessary, as well as a solid credit card !
More accessible, with one star in the Michelin guide :
Le Rendez-Vous des Pêcheurs à Blois, tel. : 02 54 74 67
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L’Aubinière à Saint Ouen les Vignes, tel. : 02 47 57 23 67
Further recommendations, not from any guide, but based on experience :
La Poste à Molineuf
Les Trois Marchands à Herbault
L’Union à Santenay
La Madeleine à Vendôme
La Flambée á La Chapelle-Vendômoise
For those looking for a touch of distinction., the "Domaine de Moulins" may be the right address : A classical manor, located only one kilometre away from the airfield, hidden in a sumptuous park : A house marked by style, charm and discretion.
Last but not least, for those who prefer preparing their food by themselves, some fantastic food markets can be found in the area :
Vendôme,
every Friday morning
Blois, every Saturday morning
Herbault, on Monday morning, a small market but handy since this is the place where you
normally buy the fresh baguette on Monday.
Onzain, on Thursday afternoon, ideal for late sleepers.
Fresh-from-the-morning, locally grown vegetables, fruits, salads, as well as local eggs, butter, poultry and goat cheese are offered by farmers of the area. A wide choice of fish and seafood is also available. Quality and freshness are outstanding.
Let's mention also the farm of "La Jonquière" in Saint Bohaire, 8 km away from the airfield, where you can buy gorgeous, locally grown melons and tomatoes. Also Mr. Parent, the bee-keeper of la Chapelle-Vendômoise, who produces several kinds of delicate honey and can talk for hours with love and enthusiasm about the life of his bees.
For everyday's shopping, a shopping centre located between the airfield and Blois, with the "Cora" supermarket offers all kinds of opportunities. Opening hours : Daily from 09.00 to 20.30, Saturday from 09.00 to 19.00, closed on Sunday.
Fresh bred, baguettes and Danish pastries can be found in La Chapelle-Vendômoise (closed on Monday), in Landes le Gaulois, opened on Monday but not selling bred that day ! as well as in Herbault, open on Monday, market day. Let’s mention also "La Pâte à Pain", a bred shop located at the entry of the Blis city, open 7 days a week from 06.30 to 21.30. La Chapelle-Vendômoise and Landes le Gaulois both have a butchery, both closed on Monday.
Now the table is set, but the glasses are still empty!
As far as wine is concerned, supply will never be short between Blois and Tours, on both sides of the river !
On the north bank, you will find the vineyards of Onzain, Mesland and Vouvray
The latest appellation is well known and specialised in white wines. The production is dry or half dry, the latest being the original one, or sparkling. The "Chenin blanc" grapes deliver a fruity and lively wine. On the other side of the river, just in front of Vouvray (Pronounce Voovray), you will find the Montlouis (Pronounce Monlui) vineyard, also specialised in whites. The taste is a little bit different. Visiting the cellars of Vouvray can be an unforgettable experience : Kilometres of galleries dug into the chalky rocks of the river bank. We can of course provide the necessary contacts.
Mesland (Pronounce Mailan) also produces outstanding white wines out of chenin blanc, chardonnay (seldom, but what a firework !) and sauvignon grapes, but is mainly known for its red wines. The typical grape is the gamay (same grape as for the Beaujolais) which provides a very typical taste of berry fruits to the wine. However, the controlled appellation (A.O.C.) is related to a mixture of gamay, cot and cabernet grapes. Cot and cabernet give the wine its deep purple dress under which you will discover a soft and spicy thigh, which we enjoy quite often in the evening on the airfield.
The wine from Mesland is our preferred. We get it directly from the vineyard of Michel Roger. The 1996 vintage was abundant and excellent. The 1997 vintage, which you will taste this year will be exceptional in quality. Specialists have already started making comparisons with the legendary 1947 vintage. This is mainly due to the exceptional character of the 1997 summer, which allowed a very late grape harvest, thus giving ample time to the grape to build-up a high degree of natural sugar.
Then cheers !
